Friday, April 2, 2010

March 27th Málaga

The Nazarenos

The Paso, The Float

Outside the Picasso Museum 
No pictures allowed inside

MALAGUETA!!! Beautiful beach

It was nice to wake up around 9am, eat the same ole breakfast , frosted corn flakes, Spanish style, chat with my house mamá and my roomie before getting ready.  I packed up, dressed, and walked down Recaredo street to meet Greg at Rodilla, a sandwich/ coffee café with free wifi (they pronounce it wee fee).  Greg used the internet and by 10:40 we were walking to the train station.

The train took off by 11:10. I was so excited to be on a Spanish beach with the sun actually shining.  The trip wasn't long, but it did take longer than expected.  I told the hostel we would check in around 2, but we were only 20 minutes late arriving. The hostel was called Malaga Backpackers. Fitting I'd say.  It was basically owned and operated by a few Spaniards in their late twenties.  It looked like a bachelor pad with bright painted walls in blues, lime green and even purple and orange. That was the extent of the decoration. The living area had 4 or 5 couches all covered with African printed blankets.  There was a big screen tv and the dining area had a couple tables with chairs at each. The rule: clean your own dishes. It felt like we were staying at a friend's house that wasn't catering or accommodating to us.  Bit thats exactly what a hostel is.  Its a bed for cheap- eleven euros was a steal.

We threw what little luggage we brought in our room and made a v-line from the hostel to the beach.  We hit the port first.  We got the chance to see these massive authentic antique ships.  One had recently sailed from Cádiz to Málaga. Finally walking around the border we found a beautiful beach called Malagueta. We laid in the sun for two and a half hours getting a slight tan before the buildings covered the setting sun.

Walking up and down the streets in Spain during Semana Santa, holy week, is a challenge.  The Spaniards and thousands of visitors crowd the streets to see parades take place always leading with a someone holding a cross followed by nazarenos clothed in tunics with masks and hoods (they look like the KKK) pointed to a tip.  Many are holding candles or staffs depending on their The men holding the float are called costaleros. They have to have enormous strength in order to carry the main attraction, the floats that weigh up to 2000 kg's which is around 4400 pounds! The pasos, floats, are carried by 40 men and each one bears around 110 pounds for around 8 hours. They have cushions so that the wood doesn't rub directly on them, and they get to rest several times throughout the procession. The The climax of the procession is when the float passes in and out of the cathedral or respective church. The band that accompanies this parade creates the rhythm of the pace and order.  The trumpets lead the melody. It is a beautiful experience. Anyone witnessing this can't help but be moved.  I was able to see many of these parades throughout the week.

We passed on going from the beach to Picasso's museum. We talked to a man who was watching for his son who one of the men carrying the float.  He was so proud!  The museum was incredible. Pablo Picasso's home town was Málaga and I have a much greater appreciation for this artist walking through his paintings chronologically seeing the different phases he went through. Its times like this where I wish I could trade places with either Brittany Busch or Katie Nelson and let them enjoy this opportunity I was blessed to have. My favorite was Tres Palomas, but I'm not sure if it was by Picasso or not. It was beautiful and definitely inspired from Picasso's style.

Right outside the museum, a teteria, tea shop, was calling my name.  We sat down and shared a pot of hot red tea and each ordered a turkish pastry to complement our tea perfectly.  It was a perfect ending to a traveling day having accomplished so much while doing it all in a calm relaxing manner. My kind of vaca.


Mom said...

My kind, too!!!!! You inspired me to go look-up Tres Palomas on the internet. Is this the painting you saw?

This one is definitely in Picasso style but is an American artist named Mike Savlen.

Elise Peak said...

hahaha no its palOmas... thats doves in english. palmas are palm trees. But I looked on the internet and couldn't find it sadly. I don't think Picasso did it.

Anonymous said...

I LOVE Picasso !!!!! You do know that I studied art in college, don't you ?????
I love your blog and the pictures are always so mesmerizing just knowing that you are there and actually seeing all that in person. Love you and hope you are having one of the best times of your life !!! Aunt Paulette

Elise Peak said...

I didn't realize that!!!! Have you ever told me this? Love you Aunt Paulette!

Anonymous said...

I do love Picasso, (He brings out my wild side !) but, after thinking about it , I love Monet more ( he brings out the soft, muted side)and my all time favorite is Van Gogh !!!! He is just crazy !!!! ;) Love you, Aunt Paulette